Rawmaterials
For making perfume

There are three different kind of raw materials to distinguish. Animal, vegetable an synthetic ones.

Raw materials out of animals:
The animal substances of these animals are actually meant to increase the desire to mate, it will increase the good looks of the animal, when it uses these substances. To protect the animal rights it isn’t easy to use these substances or they are to expensive, this happened after the development of the perfume industry.

Ambergrey:
Ambergrey is a wax like substance, which comes out of a cachalot, after it has eaten octopus. The substance floats in tropical oceans, it washes ashore or it is found in fishernets. When someone wants to use this substance, it has to dry for at least three years before it can be used. The very soft balm scent of the amber attaches to the skin and loans it self as a fixative. The cachalot almost becomes extinct, that’s why it’s now a very rare substance. The amberlike agreement in perfume is most of the time synthetic made or imitated with the use of plant extracts. Most of the time Laudanum is used or the oillike harsh, which is gained out of the leaves of a citrusbush.

Musk:
The muskdeer lives in the Himalaya and in Tibet. There is also an other kind of musk, which is provided by the bisamrat, this animal lives in America.
Musk is a very strong scented substance, one drop can give you a scent for fourty years. This substance comes from a living male muskdeer and is provided during the bronze time from the abdomen gland (a granular and steady substance). This substance is one of the most valuable ingrediënts, which is used during the preparence of perfume.

Civet:
The civet is a catlike animal who lives in Birma, Thailand and Ethiopië.
Civet is a fatty like substance, which comes out of an gland by the anus of these cats. In the raw moment when this substance is provided it gives a very unpleasant scent. When this substance gets very strongly diluted, the scent gets more and more pleasant.

Castoreum:
It is also named as Casto or Bevergeil. This domestic beaver lives in Canada and Siberië.
The substance which is used by the perfume world is an oillike red-brown dissidence. They get the substance from the glands of the beaver, which are found in the two bladders under in the belly, between the anus and the genitals. To provide this substance they use both, male and female beavers.
Before chr. this substance was introduced by arabian perfumers.

Synthetic raw materials:

Chanel No 5 didn’t exist, without Aldehyden and without Hedionium Roudnitska had never had his “eau de sauvage”  composed. Alchemists in the 19th century tried real hard to imitate these raw materials. This sounds very arrogant, because nature made these raw materials with so much care, time and patience.
Because of Perkin, Tiemann, Baur and Darzens the modern perfume industry arise, before the scentchemistry proved himself. There was perfume composed out of natural raw materials of high quality, which you could almost call a perfume allready.
He slowly started to mix these raw materials as simple as possible, as far as his artistic capacity could reach. These perfumes were only for wealthy people with exception of a few brands of eau de cologne. From 1830 there were a few chemists who weren’t real perfumer, they started a research for natural raw materials. In the first place they isolated the interesting elements in essential plantoils. In this way they used Geranol which smells like roses, they extrahated it from citrus herbel essense. The method they used was partial distallation.
They got Menthol by crystallisation of pepermintessence. These substances were called isolaten. After this first stap they found out there were a great deal of scentelements which could not be isolated, because they weren’t presence in a high amount or they were to precious to isolate, like Vanilline in Vanille.
The Hemisythese made sure there was the opportunity to manufacture on base of one element out of plantoil. By isolatiting Terpeen in Pine oil a substance called Terpineol arised, which is used in seringakkoorden.
These results brought researchers to imitate scents out of fossile materials, like Petroleum and
Coal. Thanks to the synthese they succeeded: by filiatie of Benzeen, a substance called Fenyletyl-alcohol arised, with a subtile rosescent. Out of Tolueen or Methylbenzeen a Jasminscent arise.
Salicylsour was the beginning of the Cumarinesynthese, which opened a road to fern like scents. The chemist were happy that they succeeded in composing molecules identical to those in nature. On account of that they devellopted synthetic scentmolecules. That made the perfumers very happy, for them it meant a true revolution.
Finally out of reduction of fat sours Aldehyden arised, but because of the sickening scent the perfumers were at first discouraged. Before this made it’s way in the world of perfume, courage was needed to start with this substance. Coco Chanel and there nose Enest Beaux experimented with this substance, just as long till there legendary scent No 5 arised. After that a big perfume line was born, which will probably never die as long as the perfume industry exists.  
The Chroma-Etnografic analyses is a proces which gives the opportunity for the molecules to indentify in a scent and to calculate the amount of presence in it. Since the second world war this analyses has found out a lot of captivating research areas concerning the presence of track shaping molecules in natural raw materials.
Since a few years researchers use a revolutionary technique, the headspace, which determents a flower the Situ, a tree or a environment. This technique also gives the opportunity to make a sort of indentificationcard to analyse the molecules.
This technique is highly recommended for flowers which aren’t used in perfumes, like the orchid and the blue rain, and to call upon an environment (like a forest or oceanscent). Next to that this technique gives the opportunity to see into the devollopment stages of natural scents, which is not always the case with essential oils. Next to that the scent is far away from the plant and it’s original situation.

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Raw Materials