|
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Distillation
Distillation:
This principle is based on evaporating and condensing fluids. Flowers,
spices,
leaves, branches,
roots and mos are boiled in water. (this is done in an distillation
kettle) Through
boiling the etheric oil vaporises, and if the water is cooled down you
can see
the oil floating on the water. Then you collect this oil. By repeating
this
action you get a more concentrated oil. From the ninth century this
process has
been improved by steam distillation. This means that the steam
condensed by
means of narrow pipes. (the pipes ran through cold water)
The former
distillation machines were placed on stones and did there work thanks
to a
fire, that somebody watched closely. Thanks to progress in technique
the
distillation kettle is nowadays driven by itself by a very light
pressure of
the steam, which is frequently produced outside the machine
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extraction_(fragrance)
Extration
also called extraheren. This takes place in large stainless steel
barrels in
which perforated plates have been piled up. This way the flowers are
flattened
or piled up, in such a manner that the solvent (ether) can circulate
freely.
After the plants are put in the barrel, the
solvents are added by means of a valve, and the next step is macereren.
The
plants are several times rinsed in a solvent, this differs by each
plantspecie
and what kind of solvent is used. When the solvent is replete with the
fragrance substances, the damp that is too much
is removed.
Then it goes to a vacuum slide where a partial distillation takes
place, after evaporating
the residue is reinserted. On the
bottom remains a mass which contains fragrance molecules, wax and
pigments.
This mixture is called resinous and orginates from dry plants, and is
called
concrete if it comes of flowers. Resin is used directly in compositions
but
concrete undergoes another
treatment.
Concrete of flowers is a thick substance with paraffin, it is
insolvable in
alcohol. It is several times rinsed in flattmachines with alcohol to
solve the
fragrance molecules. The wax is filtered before the mixture of concrete
and
alcohol is distillate with light pressure, when the alcohol is
vaporated what
remains is the absolu.
Expression
of cold persing: A cold persing is done at citrus fruits where
essential oil
comes from the peel. The oil is as it were pressed from the peel. This
machines
are nowadays of course done but in former days with the hand. This
method
"drawer spugna" had of course a much lower output than the machines
of now.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enfleurage
Productionprocesses
Enfleurage:
This technique was already used by the old Egypts
by imposing oil from leafs
off flowers or, to absorb that fragrance. Perfumers could profit of the
fact
that flowers produce still essential oil also after the take them out
of the
tree. In the 17th century on large scale the
used jasmine in France.
Glass plates were rubbed with prepared on this were leafs of flowers
laid. It
was solved in alcohol to win oil, this metod is hardly still used.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Headspace_technology
Productionprocesses
Headspace
technologyis
a technique to elucidate the odor
compounds present in the air surrounding various objects Usually the
objects of
interest are odoriferous objects such as plants, flowers and foods.
Similar
techniques are also used to analyze the interesting scents of locations
and
environments such as tea shops and saw mills. After the data is
analyzed, the
scents can then be recreated by a perfumer.
Home
History
Raw Material
Perfume Concentrations
Perfume Processes
Designers
Fragrancewater
Tips
Conditions
Contact
Who am I
Productionprocesses
|
